It's still winter, water in the fifties.
I paddle stiffly and scramble for waves
until my hands get to feeling like they do
when you rummage around in an ice chest
for too long,
looking for the last cold beer
at the bottom.
I peel off my wetsuit
and rinse under the cold outdoor shower
in a clump of bamboo,
then fumble for my car keys
and climb into the driver's seat.
Wrapped up in the deliciousness
of a dry towel with the heat on full blast,
I can't stop smiling.